June 5, 2025 by Leigh Hauck
If you’ve spent any time shooting at extended distances as an archer (beyond 60 yards), you know it’s a whole different game than our standard ‘bow range’ shooting. Every little flaw in your form, gear, or focus gets magnified. Long range shooting is brutally honest and revealing - and that’s what makes it so addictive. It’s also one of the best things you can do to better yourself as an archer, even if you never plan on taking extended shots in hunting scenarios (which I am in no way condoning).
If you’re looking to tighten things up at distance this summer, or start to stretch your max distance out, here are 5 things I’ve learned that can make all the difference when it comes to dropping bombs out to 100+ yards.
Long range archery doesn’t need to be overcomplicated. One of the biggest things that holds people back is getting too far into their own head. You draw back, the pin floats a bit, and suddenly you're panicking about holding too long, timing your shot, the wind, etc… the list goes on.
Forget all that.
I know it sounds too simple and a bit silly, but this phrase has made a big difference in my long-range mentality this season. Just hold real still, and shoot. Trust your process and make the same shot you’d make at 40 yards. You don’t need to reinvent your form at long range - just don’t talk yourself out of making a good shot. Archery really can be that simple. Shooting at 100 yards is identical to shooting at 20 if you let it be – seriously.
Here’s a weird thing our brains like to do, that you are almost guaranteed to encounter when you stretch out your shooting distance. At long range, when your pin covers the target, your brain subconsciously freaks out because you can’t see your target anymore, and you start holding just under the dot so that you can always see the dot. We call this ‘hovering’, and it can feel like an impassable brick wall when you face it.
The fix is simple. When you draw, settle above your target and aim a little high. Let gravity settle your pin down onto the target naturally. Think of it like slipping into neutral and coasting into place, rather than revving the engine to climb up. It’s smoother, steadier, and stops that subconscious flinch that often ruins a shot as you try to bring your pin on target at the last second.
I fight hovering every season at some point, and this simple tip always brings me back to planet earth.
Shooting long range is a workout. Every shot taxes your core, your shoulders, and your mental focus. You’ll start to notice that fatigue affects your hold way more at 80 yards than at 40. Tiny wobbles are magnified and really start to matter, and a rushed shot gets punished.
Take more time between shots and your groups. Let your heart rate come down, rest your shoulders, and keep your mental focus sharp. I like to shoot 5 arrow ends with longer breaks when stretching out beyond 70 yards. At 20, 30, and 40, it’s easy to just load up the next arrow and keep shooting like a revolver. Take your time at range – you will have a lower-than-average arrow count for the day, but each shot will be worth a lot more.
If you’re trying to stretch things out beyond 60-70 yards, your broadhead choice becomes even more critical. Larger, solid-blade heads with no vents may fly great up close, but at long range, they’re going to catch more wind regardless of how well setup your bow is, or how well tuned your arrows are to your bow.
Smaller, vented fixed blades like the 1” Tooth of the Arrow V-series are just plain better past 80. They are flatter, and more forgiving in the wind due to their compactness. They also will penetrate better than larger heads after the massive energy loss your arrow will suffer at extended distances.
I don’t suggest taking 80+ yard shots at animals for your first shot, but in a follow up shot or recovery scenario, anything is fair game and it’s a serious boost in confidence to know you can make that 97 yard shot with a broadhead.
I shoot a pop can at these long ranges, because the highly reflective finish is very easy to see and the size is perfect at that distance. Also, when you hit it, the can makes a loud pop. There is simply not a better feeling than hearing that pop at 100 yards when you’ve just sent a broadhead flying. It’s absolutely addicting.
This is something a lot of folks overlook: the way your fletching is set up can have a huge effect on long range accuracy. Too much helical can cause your arrow to veer off in the direction of spin at long range.
For example, we’ve seen strong right helicals consistently push arrows down and to the right at extended ranges. It’s the same principle as a curveball in baseball — spin causes movement.
At treestand/whitetail hunting distances, no problem. That strong helical is going to do a phenomenal job of stabilizing your arrow and you’ll be able to shoot any broadhead you want. Just don’t expect that performance to carry over to the long- range game. Every gear choice you make in archery has a trade off, and this is a big one to consider.
Stick with a moderate helical — around 1 to 1.5 degrees - and you’ll still get great arrow stability without introducing unwanted flight paths. This small tweak can clean up your long-range groups in a big way.
Long range shooting is one of the most rewarding (and humbling) parts of archery. It makes you better in every way. It shows you where your form breaks down, how well your gear is really set up, and it teaches you patience — all things that pay off in the fall. Practicing at 100 makes 60 feel like 30. It is that simple.
If you have any questions or would like to discuss the topic further, please feel free to reach out to us at sales@toothofthearrowbroadheads.com
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